Thursday, 19 December 2013

OGAM scenery part 1


OGAM Scenery and Scenarios. 

So here's some I've just made to do the scenarios. First off, my Litko measurement tool http://www.litko.net/categories/Shop-By-Compatible-Game-System/Ganesha/ was a real help. For instance, my river bases are a long long, medium wide with the river a short wide. The techniques used here are borrowed from, or inspired by, TMP, Yahoo groups and “how to's” on You tube. I'm also going to thank my wargaming buddy Tony, who always expects the best.

Having made rectangular "half" bases, I'm now thinking of adding some triangular.

Batch 1. Ponds, hills, ruined temples and wood bases. “1a” river.
 
Main construction materials: wood coloured vinyl tiles from 99p store*, tacks, pre-mix filler and PVA, silver foil, aquarium plants plus mixture of sand and flock. Scrap polystyrene foam and EV/funny foam.








Ponds, medium sized movement squares with corners chopped off.

Patches of rumpled foil stuck down with PVA (which fills in the rucks, making the product fairly durable), tacks held in place with rough sand, acrylic paint & PVA mix Small shards of waste foam gave some rocks.





 Water painted with ultramarine and inks. Once dry, flocked then plants added to the tacks. I should snip the tacks off, paint the stems and edge bases in brown.

Rivers were a simpler version. 

Ponds were not dry brushed white, as I wanted a "darker" finish.





















One of our wholesalers do these nice ceramic bamboo beads, a quick light green ink and I have bamboo groves that will support a flying figure.

 


Hills, square hills? Small hills!

Fortunately I had some scrap 5mm thick foam.

So a middle one 3 layers high, two layered and a third assembled out of the scraps. Filler mixed with PVA, get your fingers in there!


















The scrap one below turned out to be my favourite after some ruthless filling & trimming.

Due to using the same bowl used for the ponds, these turned out like mint ice-cream-. Two days later when dry, quick coat of burnt umber edged with yellow ochre**.

 The edges were strengthened and weathered with a dark brown sand & PVA, then a very dark flock.


 Ruined temples were made in same way, the basic one will take four of my movement trays on the top layer. The one opposite was made from such a small piece of scrap foam that even I'd bin it.













Wood bases. These are my second generation using tiles as opposed to cardboard.

I base all plants, rock, bushes and other small scenic items on 2p coins. Marking out the holes, I remove them with a very sharp knife.

Fortunately the foam is one of the few substances that will stick to the tile-glue.

A quick slosh with paint seals the glue. Even after that the foam will grip the coin.



For these and my river bases I use my “lazy” flocking technique. A thick layer of sap green and PVA is pallet~knifed on then flock is added.

I seal all of the above with strong hold hair spray. The secret is to press it down, a spoon is the ideal tool. I made extra half bases to create mixed bases or table edge.

























So that's it. I spent £3 on tiles, £2.60 on filler and £3 on paint. Everything else, lets say £5.


 Most stages were complete in 10 minutes. So these are the ideal project to have lined up for a quick burst- which is why my production/drying area is on top of the fridge.
 

 
 
*I don't know how I d missed this product which has given me instant roofs, bridges, landing stages. Lightly scour an it will take paint well. In the sizes used shows no sight of curling and, except for the ponds and bamboo, everything will pack flat.  I've tried using tiles full size, but they just curl.


**You will note that I use colours. Goblin snot is marketing, not a colour.

Nessie from 15mm.co.uk hanging about in a pond or Nessie-hole.